Thursday, 23 July 2009

Leaving Iran


The Coat of Arms of the Islamic republic of Iran seen through barbed wire
at the bordercrossing between Iran and Turkey.
It's also featured at the Iranian flag and is a Perso-Arabic script of the word "Allah".


It was with mixed feelings I crossed the border to Turkey. In one way it felt sad to leave the country just when I started to get a grip of it.

Before Going I knew a fair bit about the politics and history but I didn't have a good perception of the people, and their attitude towards the regime and past and current events. I cant say I know what the average Muhammed thinks about it now either but at least I've got a perception of the complexity of the situation and how the reasoning goes on both side of the coin: the way many young and educated people feel choked and trapped, and in the same time how people, especially from the countryside, thinks the regime is doing a good job enforcing Sharia laws and distributing the oil income in a top down manner.

I also just started to get an idea of the unique culture and traditions. By spending some time with locals - both young and old, urban and rural - I had the privilege to experience it close up; which was probably the best and most fascinating part of my visit. Even though I guess I just got a glimpse.

Lastly it was a remorseful crossing because I know that all the Farsi I've managed to pick up will be hopelessly gone as soon as I get back - before I can say "Kheyli Mamnun". I'm not saying that my Farsi, in any way, is good. But after being forced to consult my English-Farsi phrasebook numerous times a day for a month, I've managed to get some sort of grip of the language, and my vocabulary contains a fair few words and phrases.

In another way (refering back to the first paragraph), 28 day was enough time, especially considering how I was traveling: the number of cities I visited, the type of activities I devoted my time to etc. Thinking back, there isn't really anything I can say I didn't have time to do, or regret I didn't do (except for not visiting the holy city of Qom). I reckon to get to know the country and the culture even better you have to spend much more time there, preferably living and working to get a feel for how people act and behave in everyday life and situations. Unfortunately this is hard - and economically unwise - for western people at the moment. However I'm sure a revolution is coming, maybe not this year, or the next but you cant suppress a people forever. Say within 10 years I hope and think that the regime is overthrown, giving space for a more liberal, democratic and western friendly government.
And if it happens, be certain that there will be a huge surge in demand for goods, services and know-how from all over the world - I'm holding out for that day.